Tubeless Puncture Repair on the Road for Carbon | 2027

Tubeless Puncture Repair on the Road for Carbon Wheels in 2027 - Sealant, Plugs, Boots, CO2, Step-by-Step Trailside Fixes, and What to Carry

One of the biggest advantages of tubeless is self-sealing punctures - most small punctures seal instantly with sealant, and you keep riding. But when a puncture is too large for sealant, you need to know how to fix it trailside. This guide covers everything you need to know to fix a tubeless puncture on the road and get back riding.

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How Tubeless Sealant Works

Tubeless sealant is a liquid latex-based compound that sits inside the tire. When a puncture occurs:1. Air pressure forces sealant toward the hole.2. The latex particles in the sealant clog the hole (they're too large to pass through small punctures).3. The latex cures (dries) on contact with air, forming a permanent plug.

What sealant can seal:- Small punctures (<2-3mm) from thorns, small glass, wire, etc.- Pinhole leaks from porous tire casings.- Small bead leaks (if the bead isn't perfectly seated).

What sealant CANNOT seal:- Large cuts (>3-4mm) from sharp glass, metal, or rock.- Sidewall cuts or tears (sidewalls flex too much for sealant to hold).- Bead failures (tire bead torn or separated from the casing).- Rips or large holes (>5mm).- Valve stem damage or leaks.- Rim damage (dents/cracks preventing bead seating).

For punctures that sealant can't fix, you need a tire plug (for cuts 2-5mm) or a tire boot (for sidewall cuts/large holes), or a tube (as a last resort).

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What to Carry for Tubeless Puncture Repair

Item	Purpose	Price	Weight
Tubeless plug kit (Dynaplug, Genuine Innovations, Park Tool)	Seal cuts that sealant can't close (2-5mm)	$15-30	20-50g
Tire boot (Park Tool TB-2, or old tire piece + tape)	Temporary fix for sidewall cuts/large holes (>5mm)	$5-10	10-20g
Small bottle of sealant (30-50ml)	Top up if sealant is low/dry, or add extra for a stubborn puncture	$5-10	30-50g
CO2 inflator + 2 cartridges (25g or 16g)	Re-inflate after fixing a flat (faster than a mini pump)	$20-40	50-100g
Mini pump (high-volume, tubeless-compatible)	Re-inflate (slower than CO2 but unlimited use)	$20-50	80-150g
Tire levers (2-3)	Remove/reinstall tire if needed (for boots or tube)	$5-10	20-40g
Inner tube (correct size, Presta valve)	Last resort - if the tire is too damaged for plug/boot, install a tube (converts tubeless to tubed temporarily)	$8-15	80-120g
Valve core tool (or small pliers)	Remove/reinstall valve core (for adding sealant, or if valve is clogged)	$5-10	5-10g
Multi-tool (with tire lever, chain tool, hex keys)	General repairs (also useful for non-tire issues)	$15-30	50-100g

Minimum kit (for road riding): Tubeless plug kit + CO2 inflator (2 cartridges) + tire levers + mini tube (last resort). This covers 95% of tubeless punctures on the road.

Full kit (for gravel/MTB/long rides): Everything above + sealant bottle + tire boot + valve core tool + mini pump. For remote rides where a walk home is long, carry the full kit.

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Step-by-Step: Fixing a Tubeless Puncture on the Road

Scenario 1: Small Puncture (Sealant Should Seal It)

Symptoms: Slow air loss (10-30 psi over a few minutes), hissing sound from a small hole, visible thorn/glass/debris embedded in the tire.

Steps:1. Stop and identify the puncture: Spin the wheel and listen for the hiss. Look for the hole (it may be a tiny pinhole, or there may be a thorn/glass/debris sticking out).2. Remove any embedded debris: Use pliers (or your multi-tool) to pull out the thorn/glass/wire. Don't leave it in - it will keep reopening the hole.3. Let the sealant work: Rotate the wheel so the puncture is at the bottom (sealant pools at the bottom, toward the hole). Wait 30-60 seconds. The sealant should clog the hole and stop the hiss.4. Re-inflate if needed: If pressure dropped, use CO2 or a pump to re-inflate to the correct pressure.5. Check the seal: Spin the wheel and listen for hissing. If no hiss, the seal worked. If still hissing, go to Scenario 2 (plug).6. Ride on: The seal will cure fully within a few minutes. Check the pressure periodically for the next 10-20 km (the seal may leak slightly until fully cured).

If sealant doesn't seal after 60 seconds: The hole may be too large for sealant, or the sealant may be old/dry. Go to Scenario 2 (plug) or add more sealant (Scenario 4).

Scenario 2: Larger Cut (Needs a Tire Plug)

Symptoms: Hissing that doesn't stop after 60 seconds, visible cut/slit in the tire (2-5mm), sealant spraying out of the hole when you spin the wheel.

Steps:1. Identify and clean the cut: Remove any debris. Use a small pick or the plug tool's reamer to clean the cut (remove loose rubber/debris from inside the cut - this helps the plug adhere).2. Prepare the plug:- Dynaplug-style: Insert a plug (rubberized cord) into the plug tool. The plug is pre-loaded - you just need to have the tool ready.- Genuine Innovations / Park Tool style: Thread a rubber plug (sticky, rubberized cord) through the eye of the insertion tool (like threading a needle). Leave 1-2cm of plug on each side.3. Insert the plug:- Dynaplug: Press the tool firmly into the cut (the plug inserts into the tire). Pull the tool out quickly - the plug stays in the tire.- Genuine Innovations/Park Tool: Insert the threaded plug into the cut (push it in until the middle of the plug is at the tire surface - the plug should be halfway in, halfway out). Pull the tool out (the plug stays in the tire).4. Trim the plug: Use a knife or scissors to trim the plug flush with the tire surface (leave 1-2mm protruding - don't cut it completely flush, it may pull out).5. Re-inflate: Use CO2 or a pump to inflate to the correct pressure. The plug should seal instantly (no hissing).6. Check the seal: Spin the wheel and listen. If no hiss, ride on. If still hissing, the plug may not be seated properly - remove it and try again, or use a second plug (for larger cuts, you can insert 2 plugs side by side).7. Ride on: The plug will cure and bond with the tire. It's a permanent fix (plugs can last the life of the tire). Check pressure periodically.

Important: Plugs work best for cuts/slits in the tread area (2-5mm). They don't work well for sidewall cuts (the sidewall flexes too much - the plug works out). For sidewall cuts, use a tire boot (Scenario 3).

Scenario 3: Sidewall Cut or Large Hole (Needs a Tire Boot)

Symptoms: Cut on the sidewall (not the tread), large hole (>5mm), tire bulging or the tube (if tubed) would show through. Sealant and plugs won't work.

Steps:1. Remove the tire: Deflate completely, break the bead on one side, and remove the tire from the rim (you only need to remove one side - leave the other side seated if possible).2. Clean the inside of the tire: Wipe the inside of the tire (around the cut) with a clean rag (remove sealant, dirt, debris). The boot needs a clean surface to adhere to.3. Apply the boot:- Park Tool TB-2 (or similar adhesive boot): Peel the backing off the boot, place it over the cut on the inside of the tire (the boot should cover the entire cut, with 1-2cm of overlap on all sides). Press firmly to ensure good adhesion.- DIY boot (old tire piece + tape): Cut a piece of old tire (or a dollar bill, energy gel wrapper, or sturdy paper) slightly larger than the cut. Place it over the cut on the inside of the tire. Hold it in place with electrical tape or duct tape (tape around the inside of the tire to hold the boot).- Important: The boot goes on the inside of the tire (not the outside). It reinforces the cut from the inside and prevents the tire from bulging or the tube from showing through.4. Reinstall the tire: Seat the bead back on the rim. Make sure the boot is still in place (it shouldn't move if you pressed it firmly).5. Re-inflate: Use CO2 or a pump. Inflate slowly at first (to make sure the bead seats properly and the boot doesn't shift). Inflate to the correct pressure (or slightly lower - 5-10 psi less than normal reduces stress on the cut/boot).6. Check the boot: Spin the wheel and check that the tire isn't bulging at the cut (the boot should prevent bulging). If it bulges, the boot isn't covering the cut properly - deflate and reposition.7. Ride carefully: A boot is a temporary fix (not permanent). Ride gently - avoid hard cornering, hard braking, big hits, or high pressure. Replace the tire as soon as possible (a sidewall cut is structural - the tire is compromised and can fail suddenly, even with a boot).

Important: For a large sidewall cut (>1cm) or a torn bead, a boot may not be enough. In that case, install an inner tube (Scenario 5) as a last resort - or walk/call for a ride. A severely damaged tire is unsafe to ride, even with a boot.

Scenario 4: Sealant Is Dry or Low (Add More Sealant)

Symptoms: Puncture won't seal (even small ones), tire loses air slowly (pinhole that won't seal), you can hear that there's no liquid sloshing inside the tire when you shake it.

Steps:1. Remove the valve core: Use a valve core tool (or small pliers) to unscrew the valve core (counterclockwise). This allows maximum airflow and sealant injection.2. Inject sealant: Use a sealant injector syringe (Stan's, Orange Seal, Muc-Off all sell injectors) to inject 30-45ml (road 28c) or 45-60ml (gravel 40c) of fresh sealant through the valve.- If you don't have an injector: You can pour sealant directly into the tire (break the bead, pour sealant inside, reseat the bead). But this is messier and requires a pump/booster to reseat the bead.3. Reinstall the valve core: Screw it back in (clockwise) - tighten firmly (but don't over-tighten, it can strip).4. Re-inflate: Use CO2 or a pump to inflate to the correct pressure.5. Distribute the sealant: Spin the wheel vigorously (and shake it side to side) to distribute the fresh sealant throughout the tire. Rotate the wheel so any puncture is at the bottom (sealant pools toward the hole).6. Check the seal: Wait 30-60 seconds, then check for hissing. The fresh sealant should seal small punctures.7. Ride on: The fresh sealant will cure and seal punctures. Check pressure periodically.

Prevention: Check your sealant every 2-3 months (squeeze the tire - if you don't hear liquid sloshing, it's dry). Top up with 30-45ml every 2-3 months (or every 6 months if you ride infrequently). Sealant dries out over time (especially in hot/dry climates).

Scenario 5: Last Resort - Install an Inner Tube

Symptoms: Tire is too damaged for plug/boot (large sidewall tear, torn bead, multiple large cuts), or you've tried plug/boot and it still won't hold air.

Steps:1. Remove the tire: Deflate completely, remove the valve (unscrew the lockring and pull the tubeless valve out from the inside), break both beads, and remove the tire from the rim.2. Remove the tubeless tape (optional - if you're installing a tube, the tubeless tape can stay, but make sure there are no sharp spoke holes or burrs that could puncture the tube). If the tape is damaged or peeling, remove it (or cover the spoke holes with electrical tape).3. Inspect the tire: Check the inside of the tire for any sharp objects (glass, thorns, wire) that could puncture the tube. Remove any debris. Check for large cuts - if the cut is >5mm, you may need a boot inside the tire (even with a tube, a large cut can cause the tube to bulge and blow out).4. Install the tube: Partially inflate the tube (just enough to give it shape - 5-10 psi). Insert the tube into the tire (valve first through the valve hole). Work the tube into the tire cavity (make sure it's not twisted or pinched).5. Seat the tire bead: Start at the valve, work both beads onto the rim. Use tire levers for the last section (be careful not to pinch the tube - push the tube up into the tire cavity while levering the bead on).6. Inflate slowly: Use a pump (CO2 can be too fast and cause pinch flats). Inflate to 20-30 psi first, check that the bead is seated evenly on both sides (no tube showing between bead and rim), then inflate to the correct pressure (or slightly lower - 5-10 psi less reduces stress on the damaged tire).7. Check for pinches: Spin the wheel and check that the tube isn't pinched (if it's pinched, you'll see a bulge or the tire will blow out quickly). If pinched, deflate, reposition the tube, and re-inflate.8. Ride carefully: A tube in a damaged tire is a temporary fix. Ride gently - avoid hard cornering, big hits, or high pressure. Replace the tire as soon as possible.

Important: Installing a tube converts your tubeless wheel to a tubed wheel temporarily. You'll lose the benefits of tubeless (no pinch flats, lower pressure, less rolling resistance) until you replace the tire and reset the tubeless system. But it's better than walking home.

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Common Puncture Repair Mistakes

Mistake	Problem	Solution
Leaving debris in the tire	The thorn/glass keeps reopening the hole - sealant/plug won't seal	Always remove embedded debris before repairing
Not enough sealant	Punctures won't seal - sealant is dry or too low	Carry a small bottle of sealant; check/top up every 2-3 months
Plug inserted at wrong angle	Plug doesn't seal, or works out quickly	Insert plug straight into the cut (perpendicular to the tire surface)
Trimming plug too short	Plug pulls out of the tire	Leave 1-2mm protruding (don't cut completely flush)
Boot on the outside of the tire	Boot doesn't reinforce the cut - tire still bulges	Boots go on the inside of the tire
Inflating too fast with CO2	Tube pinches, bead doesn't seat properly, CO2 freezes the valve	Inflate slowly (especially with a tube); for tubeless, CO2 is fine (fast airflow helps seat the bead)
Riding hard on a booted/patched tire	Temporary fix fails - tire blows out, can cause a crash	Ride gently on temporary fixes; replace the tire as soon as possible
Not checking pressure after repair	Slow leak goes unnoticed - tire goes flat again later	Check pressure 5-10 minutes after repair, and again after 10-20 km
Using the wrong size tube	Tube too large = bunched/pinched; too small = stretched/blown	Use the correct tube size for your tire (e.g., 700x28c tube for a 28c tire)
Forgetting to remove the tubeless valve (when installing a tube)	The tubeless valve stem interferes with the tube valve - can't inflate properly	Remove the tubeless valve (unscrew lockring, pull out from inside) before installing a tube

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FAQ

Q: I got a sidewall cut on my Bola Gravel 40 wheels (40c tubeless tires) on a ride. The cut is about 8mm long on the sidewall. Sealant won't seal it. I have a Dynaplug kit and a CO2 inflator, but no boot or tube. Can I fix it with just the plug? Should I ride home?A: For an 8mm sidewall cut, a tire plug alone will NOT work reliably - sidewall cuts flex too much, and the plug will work out quickly (especially on a gravel tire at lower pressure). Here's what you should do:

1. Try the plug first (it may work temporarily):- Insert a Dynaplug into the cut (straight in, perpendicular to the tire).- Trim it (leave 1-2mm protruding).- Re-inflate with CO2.- If it holds air for 5-10 minutes (no hissing, no bulging): You can try riding home very gently - no hard cornering, no big hits, no standing up to pedal (sit and spin), and keep pressure 5-10 psi lower than normal. Check the plug every 5-10 km. If it starts hissing or bulging, stop.- If it doesn't hold air (hissing immediately, or the plug works out): Don't keep trying - sidewall cuts need a boot. Move to step 2.

2. Make a DIY boot (you don't need a commercial boot):- You can make a boot from anything sturdy and flexible:- An old tire piece (if you're carrying one - best option, it's the same material as the tire).- A dollar bill / banknote (sturdy paper, works surprisingly well as a temporary boot).- An energy gel wrapper (foil/plastic wrapper - sturdy enough for a short ride home).- A multi-tool's tire lever packaging (if it's sturdy plastic/cardboard).- Duct tape / electrical tape (if you're carrying any - you can layer tape to make a boot, or use tape to hold a paper/foil boot in place).- How to apply:1. Deflate the tire completely.2. Break one bead (leave the other side seated).3. Pull the tire away from the rim at the cut (so you can reach the inside).4. Wipe the inside of the tire (around the cut) with a clean rag (or your jersey - remove sealant/dirt so the boot adheres).5. Place the boot (paper/foil/old tire) over the cut on the inside of the tire - it should cover the entire cut with 1-2cm overlap on all sides.6. If you have tape, tape around the inside of the tire to hold the boot (tape across the boot, onto the tire casing). If no tape, the boot will be held in place by the tube (if you install one) or by air pressure (if you can reseat the bead tubeless - but for an 8mm sidewall cut, tubeless alone may not hold).7. Reseat the bead (you may need to break both beads to get the boot in properly - then reseat both).8. Re-inflate with CO2 (slowly, to make sure the bead seats and the boot doesn't shift).9. Check for bulging at the cut (the boot should prevent bulging). If it bulges, the boot isn't covering the cut - deflate and reposition.

3. If the boot + tubeless doesn't hold air:- You'll need to install a tube (but you said you don't have one). In that case:- Call for a ride (if you have phone service and someone can pick you up).- Walk home (if it's not too far - walking with a flat tire is better than crashing on a failed repair).- Try to find a tube (if you pass a bike shop, gas station, or convenience store - some carry basic tubes).- Hitchhike (if you're comfortable - cyclists often get picked up by other cyclists or drivers).

4. Should you ride home on a plugged/booted sidewall cut?- If the repair holds air and there's no bulging: You can ride home very carefully - sit and spin (no standing), avoid hard cornering and big hits, keep pressure 5-10 psi low, and check the repair every 5-10 km. A sidewall cut is structural - the tire is compromised, and even with a boot, it can fail suddenly. Ride at your own risk.- If the repair doesn't hold air, or the tire bulges: Don't ride it - a sidewall blowout at speed can cause a serious crash. Walk or call for a ride.

5. What to do when you get home:- Replace the tire - an 8mm sidewall cut is structural damage. Even if the boot held you home, the tire is compromised and can fail later (especially under hard cornering or high pressure). Don't race or ride hard on a cut tire.- If the cut is small (<5mm) and in the tread (not sidewall): A plug is a permanent fix - you can keep riding the tire. But for an 8mm sidewall cut, replace the tire.- Reset the tubeless system: When you install the new tire, add fresh sealant (45-60ml for 40c gravel), seat the bead, and check for leaks.

Summary for your 8mm sidewall cut:- Try the Dynaplug first - if it holds, ride home very gently (sit and spin, low pressure, check frequently).- If the plug doesn't hold: Make a DIY boot from a dollar bill, energy gel wrapper, or old tire piece (inside the tire). If you have tape, use it to hold the boot.- If the boot + tubeless doesn't hold: You need a tube (which you don't have) - walk or call for a ride.- When you get home: Replace the tire (sidewall cuts are structural - the tire is compromised).- For future rides: Carry a small boot (Park Tool TB-2, or a folded old tire piece) + a tube (last resort) - especially for gravel rides where you're far from help. A Dynaplug + CO2 is great for tread cuts, but sidewall cuts need a boot or tube.

Q: How long does a tubeless plug last? Is it a permanent fix or temporary? Should I replace the tire after plugging it?A: A properly installed tubeless plug is a permanent fix for tread cuts (2-5mm). It can last the entire remaining life of the tire (thousands of kilometers). Here's the detailed answer:

1. Plugs in the tread area = permanent:- A plug (Dynaplug, Genuine Innovations, etc.) is made of a rubberized cord that's inserted into the cut. The rubber bonds with the tire casing and cures (vulcanizes) over time, forming a permanent seal.- Once the plug is cured (usually within a few hours to a day), it's as strong as the surrounding tire (for small cuts). It won't work out, leak, or fail - it's part of the tire.- Many riders ride tires with multiple plugs for thousands of km without issues. Plugs are a standard, accepted repair method for tubeless tires.- You do NOT need to replace the tire after a proper tread plug. The tire is safe to ride (including racing, hard cornering, high pressure) once the plug is cured.

2. Plugs in the sidewall = temporary (at best):- Sidewall cuts are different - the sidewall flexes constantly (every rotation of the wheel), and this flexing works the plug out over time.- A plug in a sidewall cut may hold for a few km to a few hundred km, but it will eventually work out (the flexing pumps it out).- For sidewall cuts, use a boot (not a plug) - a boot reinforces the cut from the inside and resists flexing better. But even a boot is temporary (the sidewall is structurally compromised).- For sidewall cuts >5mm: Replace the tire as soon as possible. The sidewall is the structural part of the tire - a cut weakens it, and it can fail suddenly (blowout) under load (hard cornering, high pressure, big hit).

3. When to replace a plugged tire:- Replace if: The cut is in the sidewall (any size >3mm), the cut is >5mm in the tread (a plug may not fully seal a very large cut), the plug doesn't hold air (keeps leaking or works out), the tire has multiple large cuts (structural integrity is compromised), or the cut is near the bead (bead area cuts can cause the bead to fail).- Don't replace if: The cut is 2-5mm in the tread area, the plug holds air (no hissing after installation), the plug is properly installed (not working out), and the tire has no other structural damage. A proper tread plug is permanent.

4. How to ensure a plug is permanent:- Use a quality plug kit: Dynaplug, Genuine Innovations, Park Tool, and other reputable brands make quality plugs. Cheap no-name plugs may not bond well or may work out.- Clean the cut before plugging: Remove debris and use the reamer (if your kit has one) to clean the cut - this helps the plug adhere to the tire casing.- Insert the plug correctly: Straight in (perpendicular to the tire surface), all the way in, then pull the tool out quickly. The plug should be halfway in, halfway out (for threaded plugs) or fully inserted (for Dynaplug).- Trim properly: Leave 1-2mm protruding (don't cut completely flush - it may pull out). Don't leave too much (it can get caught on things and pull out).- Let it cure: Wait 5-10 minutes before riding hard (the plug needs time to bond). After 24 hours, it's fully cured and permanent.- Check pressure: After plugging, check pressure after 10 minutes, 1 hour, and the next day. If it holds pressure for 24 hours, it's a permanent seal.

5. Plugs vs. patches vs. boots:- Plugs: For tread cuts (2-5mm). Permanent. Installed from the outside (no need to remove the tire). Fast (30 seconds).- Patches (vulcanizing patches, like tube patches): For tread cuts or sidewall cuts. Installed from the inside (need to remove the tire). More permanent than plugs for some cuts, but more work. Not commonly used for tubeless (plugs are faster and easier).- Boots: For sidewall cuts or large holes (>5mm). Temporary (reinforces the cut from the inside). Installed from the inside (need to remove the tire). Used when a plug won't work (sidewall) or as a supplement to a plug (large cuts).- For road/gravel riding: Carry plugs (for tread cuts) + a boot (for sidewall cuts) + a tube (last resort). This covers all puncture scenarios.

Summary:- Tread plug (2-5mm) = permanent - don't replace the tire, ride it normally (after the plug cures for 24 hours).- Sidewall cut = temporary - use a boot, ride gently, replace the tire as soon as possible.- Large tread cut (>5mm) = may need boot + plug, or replacement - if a single plug doesn't seal, try 2 plugs, or a boot + plug. If it still doesn't hold, replace the tire.- Check pressure after 24 hours - if it holds, it's permanent. If it leaks, the plug didn't seal properly (replug or replace the tire).

For your Bola wheels: Bola recommends quality tubeless plugs (Dynaplug, Genuine Innovations) for tread punctures, and boots for sidewall cuts. Always carry a plug kit + CO2 on rides - it's the fastest, easiest way to fix most tubeless punctures. And check your sealant every 2-3 months (dry sealant is the #1 cause of "punctures that won't seal").

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Ready to Fix Any Tubeless Puncture?

Visit bolacarbon.com for tubeless accessories and wheel support:

• Tubeless sealant: Stan's NoTubes, Orange Seal, Muc-Off (various sizes - including travel-sized 30ml bottles for your saddle bag)
• Tubeless plug kits: Dynaplug, Genuine Innovations, Park Tool (compact, lightweight, trailside-ready)
• Tire boots: Park Tool TB-2 and other boot options
• Tubeless valves: Replacement valves (various lengths/colors)
• CO2 inflators + cartridges: Compact inflators for fast trailside inflation
• Inner tubes: Presta valve tubes (various sizes - last resort backup)

All Bola carbon wheels are tubeless-ready (tape pre-installed, valves included) and designed for reliable tubeless performance. With the right repair kit and knowledge, you can fix 95% of tubeless punctures trailside and get back riding in minutes. If you have questions about tubeless setup, sealant, or puncture repair, contact our support team at info@bolacarbon.com - we're happy to help you keep your Bola wheels rolling smoothly.

Remember: Tubeless is reliable - most punctures seal instantly with sealant. For the ones that don't, a plug (tread) or boot (sidewall) will get you home. Carry the right kit, know how to use it, and you'll never be stranded by a flat tire again.

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• Road Wheels - full collection

All Bola wheelsets include: tubeless tape + valves, 2-year warranty, crash replacement program (50% off), and free worldwide shipping on orders over $500. Have questions about which wheelset is right for you? Contact our engineering team at info@bolacarbon.com.